A pick of my favourite slab routes from VD to E3. Some could certainly argue to be amongst the UKs best slab climbs.
I originally wrote this post many years ago on an old blog but still stand by these choices. All routes that have given me great experiences.
As a climber of 15+ years, and being averse to training, I have always enjoyed a good slab route. Here are 5 of my favourite slab routes, from easiest to hardest. To add a bit of variety they cover a few different rock types to boot. These are all good routes to have on the ticklist of the mid grade trad leader:
- Sou’wester Slabs – Cir Mhor, Arran – VD
Rock Type: Granite
I have sometimes found easy slabs can be a little bland, as they have lost some of the delicacy of the discipline. However Sou’wester is a gem, and puts you into great position at the head of Glen Rosa. Dancing up the slab, laying off solid great cracks of perfect rock, I felt like Alex Huber cranking up some alpine face (no withstanding the 10 grade difference). Ok, so the midgies can make any Scottish visit trying, but well worth it for routes of such quality - Scavenger – 3 Cliffs Gower – VS 4c
Rock Type: Limestone
A route with a particular resonance for me, my first VS, and I had a bit of a wobbler when I nearly discoed off after my gear fell out early in the route. Still, a great route and one I have repeated a few times. The route takes the slabby corner on the right side of the main face above the through cave (As another recommendation, Under Milk Wood which starts in the cave is an esoteric gem). Protection is good once you are 20ft or so up. 3 cliffs is a beautiful crag, and this is one of those amenable but fun routes that goes hand in hand with a beach bbq and a bit of frisbee. - American Beauty – Lundy Island – E1 5a
Rock Type: Granite
My first “E1” which always has a place in my climbing heart. Situated on the rocky Lundy Island, which squats solidly in the Bristol Channel, a great classic. 3 pitches and an ab descent make for a serious but not overly so, sea cliff experience. The route is a perfect example of delicate, but none too difficult, mid grade granite slabbing. Plenty of small wires make it reasonably safe and as with any climb on Lundy it oozes atmosphere. - Sacre Coeur – Blackchurch Rock – E2 5c
Rock Type: Greenstone
Sheer delight says Littlejohn in his South West Climbs guide and he’s not wrong. Situated on the spectacular greenstone buttress of Blackchurch rock the route is delicate and sustained (for the calves primarily), but always with good enough holds and protection. This is a great experience and must do for visitors to the Culm Coast. The route predominantly follows a thin crackline up the left side of the slab, starting slightly right, and keeps you entertained right until the end. - Chalkstorm – Roaches – E3/4 5c
Rock Type: Grit
Cue grade debate. Personally I onsighted and I thought the route E3, chiefly because I couldn’t get close to any other E4 at the time (which it gets in most guides). However that’s by the by. Perhaps a route that seems out of place in a list of routes of the highest quality, and certainly not the best Gritstone slab, but a route that has given me and many other climbers a taste of harder, bolder grit that would normally be beyond us. Taking the centre of the small slab, protection is limited to pretty much 1 piece just below the overlap, unlikely to save a painful fall if you decide to part company with rock higher up the slab.
Long live slabs, teetering against warm rock, burning calves and tiny wires. Sea sucking at your seconds feet, sitting at the top savouring success in the warm sun. Breathless moments and tenuous traverses, sticking where you shouldn’t, atomic size edges in smooth slate, Perfect pockets in limestone.